They say getting there is half the fun. In this case, “getting there” involved hopping on FlyNamibia’s Wednesday/Friday/Sunday flight to Katima Mulilo, with a quick stop in Maun, Botswana, for a splash of fuel and a polite “anyone getting off?” moment. Forty-five minutes to Maun, a 15–20 minute refuel, and another short hop later, I was stepping off the plane into the far north-east of Namibia, the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi) and straight into adventure mode.
At the airport, we were met by our guide, Victor, whose friendliness and enthusiasm could convince anyone to pack up and move to the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi). We headed off for a 1 hour 15-minute drive to the Sijwa Project, African Monarch Lodges’ pride and joy part conservation, part community empowerment, and entirely impressive. But more on that later.
Nambwa Tented Lodge – Where Luxury Meets Elephant Country
First, I was dropped at the jetty for a lodge transfer by boat, Savanna cider in hand, spotting wildlife as we drifted along the river. Honestly, every long journey should end this way.
Thirty or so minutes later, we pulled up to Nambwa Tented Lodge, perched high above the floodplain on wooden stilts. The welcome was warm, scented towels were offered to wash away the travel dust, and my bags vanished in the direction of my suite before I could even say “thank you.” Walking to my room felt like wandering through a treetop hideaway, shaded pathways wrapped in greenery, with the occasional rustle reminding you that yes, you’re in the wild.
And then… the room. Spacious, airy, and downright gorgeous. A queen-sized bed you could lose yourself in, a freestanding bath with views over the floodplain (because fancy tubs and dramatic sunsets are the new power couple), and canvas walls that rolled up to let the breeze and those views, pour in. Thoughtful touches were everywhere: a cosy coffee station, a couch for lazy afternoons, even a little box to write a letter to your future self. In the open-plan bathroom, neatly stacked towels, bespoke lodge robes, mosquito spray, and even a blow horn (for emergencies, not impromptu concerts).
Night-time strolls to the main building are guided by the gentle glow of a lamp thoughtfully left on your nightstand. The elevated walkways stay unlit to keep the lodge truly part of nature, not the other way around. Out on the private deck, floodplain views stretch endlessly, occasionally interrupted by the shapes of grazing antelope or lumbering elephants.
Gin, Game Drives, and a Sundowner Like No Other
The heart of Nambwa is its main building, home to a gin bar (with local varieties you’ll want to “research” thoroughly), fresh-baked daily treats, a tea selection that would make the British proud, and a firepit overlooking a busy waterhole. It’s the perfect place to linger… but the bush was calling.
Our game drive into Bwabwata National Park started with three elephants casually munching beside the road, then wound its way to the famous Horseshoe Bend. The drive alone was spectacular, think fish eagles, rich scenery, and that quiet sense you’re somewhere special. But the sundowner setup? Next level. A private table on the riverbank, gins and tonics to suit every taste, wine for the non-gin crowd, and an array of snacks, all homemade. Beetroot chips, potato skins, biltong (local, naturally), and more, paired with blankets and pillows for when the air turned cool. As the sun sank, elephants stepped into the water, drinking, splashing, and playing, and we all just… stopped. Because some moments don’t need commentary.
And because Nambwa is the only lodge allowed to drive in the park after dark, we stayed until the light was gone.
Dinner Worth Writing Home About
Back at the lodge, dinner was a masterclass in both flavour and service. Dietary requirements were confirmed with precision, the chef popped out to present the evening’s menu, and the waitstaff introduced themselves. Service was polished, plates cleared from the right, wine glasses topped up without a word.
The food? Let’s just say I’m still dreaming about it. A fresh avocado-tomato-feta salad with balsamic drizzle, served alongside mini pizzas topped with creative meat and veggie combos. Homemade coconut milk coffee ice cream that made me question every other ice cream I’ve ever had. A dark and white chocolate mousse so smooth it should come with a warning label. And then, a perfectly cooked fillet steak with gravy, seasonal veg, and mash, comfort food done with elegance.
A Day on the River
If the game drive was magic, the boat cruise was bliss. Bevan, our endlessly patient captain, navigated the waterways with humour and skill, while Storm pointed out bird species with an eagle eye (pun intended). The two-deck boat meant you could watch from above for a grand view or stay at water level for those up-close photo opportunities. Snacks? Homemade, of course. Drinks? Everything from gin to non-alcoholic spritzers. The pace? Exactly as it should be, unhurried.
The Sijwa Project – Where Waste Becomes Wonder
Remember that little stop on my first day? The Sijwa Project is where African Monarch Lodges proves that sustainability can be more than a buzzword. They recycle so much waste they must beg other lodges for rubbish.
In the Glass Recycling Workshop, bottles become jewellery, and décor. The Sewing Workshop, born during the Covid downtime, now employs women from nearby villages to make the lodge’s distinctive robes, the building itself is made from eco-bricks stuffed with plastic waste. The Carpentry Workshop produces beehive boxes for their beekeeping project, while the Tin Workshop turns cans into butter dishes adorned with glass jewels.
Twelve percent of the lodges’ revenue goes straight back to the community, funding projects from chilli “Box to Blaze” fire bricks to permaculture gardens and indigenous tree nurseries. In 2024 alone, Sijwa recycled over 10,000 tins, 31,000 glass bottles, 32,000 plastic bottles, and 2,000 cardboard boxes, while employing 33 people who each support up to 12 dependants. No greenwashing. Just results.
Kazile Island Lodge – Peace on the Kwando
After the adventure and drama of Nambwa, Kazile Island Lodge was like exhaling in slow motion. Accessible only by boat, the lodge sits under mangosteen and Jackalberry trees on its own private island. Canvas-walled suites open onto decks with floodplain views, where hippos grunt in the distance and the river lulls you to sleep. Days melt away in boat cruises and game drives, evenings are for the firepit and star reflections on the water. It’s wild, yes but also serene in a way that makes you forget what day it is.
Final Thoughts
African Monarch Lodges, with the elegance of Nambwa, the calm of Kazile, and the heart of Sijwa, delivers a Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi) experience that’s equal parts indulgence, adventure, and inspiration.
The wildlife here is rich beyond words, in just two days, I saw more elephants than anywhere else in Namibia. Herds moving through the floodplains, lone bulls wandering close enough to hear the crunch of branches, it’s a photographer’s dream. And speaking of photography, they’ve thought of everything: vehicles have adjustable camera rests, and the boats even have a second deck for that perfect elevated shot.
One of my favourite personal touches was the chance to write a letter to my future self. You choose whether it’s posted to you in six months or a year, reflecting on what you want to achieve and what you know about yourself that might need a little fine-tuning. You seal it with wax and the lodge logo, a thoughtful and completely unique keepsake. And yes, there’s sherry in the rooms to sip while you write… which may or may not make you a little more in touch with your emotions than usual.
Beyond the guest experience, African Monarch Lodges genuinely invests in people. The Sijwa Project provides the surrounding communities with opportunities to work and earn an income, while the lodges themselves employ and train local staff. Not just for hospitality jobs, but for future management roles. Staff are supported with training and even given the chance to complete courses online. And with the Beehive Project coming soon, they’ll be expanding their sustainability efforts even further.
The trip was made even more special by the company, the ladies I travelled with were vibrant, free-spirited, and just plain fun. We laughed (a lot), swapped stories, and made memories I’ll keep long after the letter to my future self arrives. A big shoutout to Storm for organising this trip with these incredible lodges, and to Tinolla from African Monarch Lodges for making it happen.
This is a place where luxury travel meets meaningful impact, where every sunset, game drive, and quiet river moment is paired with a sense that your visit is part of something bigger.
